Many products have ‘wonder claims’ that they can penetrate the skin with the amazing ingredients they hold but how does this happen? How can molecules that are simply to big penetrate further than the epidermis? It is like trying to squeeze a square peg in a round hole!
To make any real change in the skin there has to be a skin penetration level to the EDJ (epidermal-dermal junction) above 5%. The majority of ingredients in skincare have 2-5% penetration, some ingredients not able to penetrate at all.
The EDJ is the meeting place of the epidermis and dermis, many roles are in play at this junction including cellular communication, nutrient exchange and absorption.
Skin conditions like pigmentation, aging, acne, sensitivity all occur from the dermis to EDJ so it stands to reasonthat the penetration of ingredients to target said conditions need to penetrate further than 5% absorption.
So the molecular size in ingredients are so important when it comes to penetration, molecules that are less than 500 daltons can easily pass through the EDJ and make a change. There are ways to trsnsport larger molecules and this is via liposome and exozome technology.
Osmosis use liposome delivery, the molecules are compressed to allow for penetration through the lipid barrier it is the same process pharmaceutical companies use for skin patches.
Exosome technology is also used by Osmosis in their Stemfactor product, Stemcells and fibroblasts create a exosome growth factor, a suit of armour that has receptors on the molecules recognized by the skin to allow for penetration.
Peptides are hyped ingredients, the fact is peptide molecules are to big to penetrate the skin – they are over 500 daltons, so literally just plumps the epidermis, it may feel soft and supple but only while the product is on the skin. Peptides are not stable molecules, more often than not they break down in skin formulas that contain water (water breaks down proteins). Peptides are not a bad ingredient they are just not an active ingredient, they are fine for superficial hydration.
Pepetides are made from amino acids, amino acids flow directly into the skin as the molecules are tiny so look for amino acids in ingredients rather than peptides.
There are other ways to penetrate products like compromising the lipid barrier with low pH washes and peels but this will actually inflame the skin and cause further damage.
The Osmosis range is all about results with non inflammation – there is literally no need to cause a wound on the skin to get a beneficial result. Understanding the science of the skin, the communication of skin cells, the structure of thought processes and the professional treatment are all part of the skins PIN code.